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Romantic Vicenza
What's romantic nowadays ? Mossy atriums and falling forums ? Villas ? Great scenes? Of course they are, but not only. Let's start this sentimental journey from the ancient heart of Vicenza. Eyes follow the spirals of the river, cross ancient bridges, stop on small palaces with precious artistic inserts. This is the quarter of "Barche" [boats]: long time ago the barges sailing up Bacchiglione river from the sea and the lagoons landed here. An echo of the Venice of merchants can be found in the flamboyant Gothic of windows and doors, in the porches and galleries of former warehouses, in the shadowy vaults still resounding with genuine voices.
Then come out of this quarter and the church of SS Felix and Fortunato will appear where the shadow of Della Scala castle lengthened. Its parvis is spread with medieval tombs that warn the respect of the place where two holy men were martyred. A small chapel was erected on their grave, then a great temple honoured by Charlemagne and devastated by Hungarians was built. An interesting ear can still listen to whispers and rumours of History echoing in its aisles. Not far away there is the place of another poignant legend: the Villa of Dwarfs stands up high on the river bank; most people come here to admire the splendid frescoes by Tiepolos. But the cleverest travellers come here by foot entering the arcades of Mount Berico; then, at the first bend, they take the lane winding among green curtains where dovecotes and cypresses appear. The walls of this villa are guarded by dwarfs; a legend tells that they were the pitful guardians of a noble malformed girl. She was given in vain to understand that she was a beautiful girl surrounded by a beautiful court. The road leads to the villa "La Rotonda", Palladio's masterpiece, and then it enters the sweet countryside of the small Valley of Silence beloved by Fogazzaro. All around there are the gentle slopes of Berici Hills, that are climbed with pleasure in summer nights for a dinner with friends: simple dishes of country inn: "bigoli" [local type of spaghetti handmade through a special press] and grilled steaks; the only concession to the finest gourmets is represented by the flavour of black truffles. But first of all romantics enjoy to listen to the melancholic singing of nightingales and to the call of tawny owls echoing among the slopes, and to look at the stars that are not dimmed by the lights of the plain. Then somebody starts telling of the time when there was the sea in Vicenza and the Hills were islands among corals, of the misteries of caves, of the hermits dwelling there, of some charming villas that were built all around. And here is the inevitable tale of courtly love. The ideal background is represented by the Castles of Juliet and Romeo at Montecchio; nothing to do with the Verona described by Shakespeare. The local pride is Luigi da Porto, Shakespeare's precursor in telling a story nobody knows where it occurred, if it ever occurred. The two castles look at each other from the top of opposite hills, separated by a valley, as the young lovers were divided by human madness. This is the reason of their name approved by all the people that appreciate beauty in nature and fine souls. Then the mount can easily be reached on the wings of feelings. At last let's meet at Bassano Bridge, that is famous because it was designed by Palladio, but its greater fame comes from the refrain "Là ci darem la mano..." of an evergreen song. Brenta river runs fast below and carries away tales of the Great War together with thousands of secrets of lovers echoing under the ancient roofing. That happened yesterday when the exchanged pledge of love was a handkerchief, but thanks God, it still happens today, although at present lovers talk of travels and shopping.
Intinerary by bike between Palladio and Tiepolo
The province of Vicenza is a very good area for bicycle amateurs, thanks to its exceptional artistic heritage, wide cycle or pedestrianized zones, gentle hills immersed in the greenness. Its historical centres offer well-preserved classic loggias, Gothic churches and Renaissance palaces. In 1994 Vicenza was recognized as World Heritage by Unesco and at present it can be included among the towns having a very high number of monumental complexes with resepct to their extension. Leaving airy squares, charming alleys and balconies full of flowers, cycle in the greenness, discovering the ups and downs between hills, or the famous Venetian villas scattered on the countryside: colonnades, arcades ans staircases evoke a world when ladies dressed in brocade walked across the frescoed halls. Gourmets will enjoy a pleasant pause in a typical country inn for a tasty snack, or to sip the famous local wines. Who likes handicrafts can admire a lot of characteristic products exhibited in shop windows and local markets.
Path of Historical Centre
There are numberless possible itineraries along the historical centre, but the path suggested in this leaflet reaches places and monuments full of charme. This trip can start from the railway station turning your back to Mount Berico and its splendid Baroque Basilica; then the visit to the town begins through the green area of the Field of Mars. Leaving Castello Gate (11th century) on the right, go on along Salvi Gardens that include a small Palladian loggia over the channel and a characteristic fountain. Enter the town again towards St. Laurence Square, with its great Franciscan church of Gothic style.
Then cycle along the avenue Corso Fogazzaro lined with remarkable palaces and characteristic "botteghe" [workshops]. Once crossed Bacchiglione river after St. Cross Gate, go on towards Querini Park, a real green lung for the town. Then, after crossing St. Lucy Gate, reach Matteotti Square with the Olympic Theatre and Palazzo Chiericati. At present this palace designed by Palladio has become the Civic Museum and it keeps an important picture gallery. After cycling along Piazza delle Erbe [Square of Vegetable Market], admire the historical St. Michael Bridge, and then come back to the railway station.
Path of Villas
The plain extending north-eastwards Vicenza is a very good territory for cycling: starting from the parking area of Stadium, reach Villa Valmarana called "La Rotonda" [The Round], real architectural jewel of the 16th century, designed by Palladio and built by Scamozzi. Few minutes after, the countryside offers the nature park of Casale, a swamp sheltering interesting species of waterbirds. Then the path leads to Lisiera, Monticello Conte Otto, Cavazzale and Caldogno among rows of trees lining ditches, and vineyards. Villa Monza of Dueville, Villa del Conte and Villa Da Porto Casarotti are worthy of a detour. The area of resurgences can be reached at Vivaro, through a dirt cartroad; here water re-emerges after an underground path, in a network of very clear channels and ditches abounding in fish. Going on southwards enter the town again, passing near St. Bortolo Gate and the medieval walls.
Path around Bassano territory
After parking near the Ossuary Temple, visit the famous wooden bridge of Bassano, designed by Palladio in 1570; then start for a hilly trip among fields and woods. After a short climb towards the plateau enabling to enjoy the sight of the surrounding valleys, go down to the first fork towards the pleasant village of Valle S. Floriano. Go on to Vallonara, admiring the characteristic "masiere" (dry-stone walls on terracing). This area is full of agritouristic resorts for a pleasant gourmet pause. Then go down to Marostica, famous for its castle, walls and square of chess where the living game of chess is played every year.
Cycle on the plain towards the village of Mason Vicentino, famous for its cherries, through a road winding up among maize fields and farmhouses. Then cycle to Nove, town of ceramics of prestigious tradition where valuable buildings adorned with ceramic decorations can be admired; this small town is famous for its typical "grappas", ceramics and wood-working.
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